The llama's ability to cope with most climatic conditions is impressive, but for basic comfort and health they do like shelter from strong winds and rain and will need some shade in Summer. Large trees are excellent, or if these are unavailable, a three sided shelter is adequate.

If llamas are content within their living group, they can be confined by a 4ft. fence of any type, although a higher fence may be required to contain a stud male if there are females on the other side. Generally sheep fencing is adequate, but barbed wire and star pickets are not recommended. Electric fencing can be used, but is not necessary.

The llama is a modified ruminant; it chews its cud but only has a three-chambered stomach. It does not have a rumen. Essential dietary elements are carbohydrates; proteins; fats; vitamins and minerals. A variety of properly managed forage provides most of its needs but this can be supplemented with hay and grain, if required. Free choice salt and minerals can be given also. Avoid overfeeding of protein as this converts to fat and can cause obesity. Any dietary changes should be implemented gradually to allow the llama's system time to adjust. Access to fresh water should always be available.

Llamas are easily transported, requiring little specialized equipment. They learn quickly to load into a horse float, van or covered, wind-proof stock crate. Normally, llamas kush (sit down) once the vehicle is in motion. If they've been given the opportunity to visit the dung pile before departure ... and the trip is not too long ... usually they'll wait until reaching their destination before relieving themselves again. We provide ours with some hay to nibble on whilst travelling. Good ventilation is essential both in Summer and Winter.

Llamas are generally healthy, stoic animals and it is often hard to tell when a llama is unwell. An unwell llama is often found away from the rest of the herd and may be slow to come for the usual feeding. It may 'kush' (sit down) more than usual or be found lying on its side. We've learnt observation is the key to early detection of illness and so check our animals regularly Also we watch the weight of our llamas as weight loss is a good indication of a health problem. Otherwise, general health management for llamas is relatively simple.

The llama has a soft padded foot with two toes. The toe nails may need occasional trimming, depending on the ground conditions. The amount of trimming necessary varies between llamas. Nail clippers used for sheep and goats, or even a pair of good pruning shears may be used.

Male llamas have fighting teeth which erupt about the age of two. These are extremely sharp and used in combat. Although these teeth may be left, it is generally considered wiser to have the Vet remove them, especially if males are kept together. The teeth are not actually extracted, but instead are sawn off with obstetrical wire.

Normal rectal temperatures vary from 38.1 - 39.9 degrees C. in adults or 38.7 - 40.1 degrees C. in babies. A rectal thermometer is an essential for every llama first aid kit.

Half-yearly clostridial injections are recommended. This may vary in different geographical locations, so it's wise to check with your local vet or agricultural department for advice on area-specific requirements. The llama's use of a communal dung pile decreases the risk of internal parasites but injections against worms may also be necessary.